Stock Wheel and Alignment Specifications

Wheels
Stock
GSR Enkei: 18x8.5 +38 ~22 pounds
MR BBS: 18x8.5 +38 ~19 pounds
Centerbore/hub size: 67.1mm

Common Upsizes
The most common upsize that can be run without needing fender modifications is 18x9.5 +22.
Any lower offset might require you to roll your rear fenders.

Tires
Stock
245/40/18 -- NOT DIRECTIONAL (so they can be rotated normally)

Common Upsizes
The "best fit" upsize is 275/35/18. However, tires of this size tend to require a wide wheel (10+ inches). Also they will likely rub on the inside of the wheel well in front at full lock. The most common upsize is 265/35/18. This results in a slighly lower tire height/circumference. This means that your speedometer will read 60mph when you're really going a couple miles slower.

Alignment
Stock
The stock alignment is typically messed up when the car is first delivered, just like on the 8 and 9. It might be a good idea to get it checked.
Per the service manual the stock alignment is:
Front:
Toe-in: 0.07* (per side, 0.14 total)
Camber: -1* (per side, non-adjustable per the manual)
Caster: 4* (non-adjustable).

Rear:
Toe in: 0.06* (per side, 0.12 total)
Camber: -1* (per side)

You can get a "free" -1*+ of camber in the front by removing the wheel, removing the top strut bolt, and flipping it such that the white dot of paint on it points away from the strut (this is the same on the 8 and 9). You will need an alignment after you do this since it will make the toe change.

"Aggressive Street" Alignment
The general consensus is:
Front:
Toe: 0*
Camber: -1.5* to -2* each side
Rear:
Toe: 0* (or the stock 0.06* toe in)
Camber: -1*

Autocross Alignment
This will require camber plates. These are just base guidelines.
Front:
Toe: 1/4 to 3/8" total toe out
Camber: -3*+ camber per side

Rear:
Toe: 0*
Camber: -1* to -2*

Track Alignment
This will require camber plates. These are, again, just base guidelines.
Front:
Toe: 0*
Camber: -3*+ camber per side

Rear:
Toe: 0*
Camber: -1* to -2*

Alignment Gotchas
Unlike Subarus, Evos are "rear steer" meaning that the steering components are behind the center of the wheel. What this means is that when you increase negative camber, you increase toe in. This makes it more difficult to change from a street friendly camber setup to a more aggressive track camber setup because you have to adjust the toe back out.
When the car is turned on, the front toe tends to drift. Be sure to have the alignment tech start your car before calling it finished. Mine drifts 0.07* out (equally on both sides).
The driver's weight will affect the toe and camber. My weight, on my suspension, changes the camber 0.2* and the toe slightly. If you are a "person of size" then it might be beneficial to either be in the car or put weights in the driver's seat to compensate.
Setting the rear toe on a lowered Evo can be difficult. Normally the camber is set and locked and the toe is then adjusted. By changing the rear suspension geometry by lowering the car, the tech might be forced to work both toe and camber at the same time to get the alignment correct